Thursday 14 July, 2011

Surf EXPLORE Charges Haiti – Again


Photos and captions by John S. Callahan

Caribbean legend Zed Layson, morning session at Blue Point near Kabik.

Caribbean legend Zed Layson, morning session at Blue Point near Kabik.

Sometimes, those Google Earth hunches pay off. After several hours of brutal driving over a terrible road west of Jacmel, Emi Cataldi surveys a new Caribbean lineup.

Sometimes, those Google Earth hunches pay off. After several hours of brutal driving over a terrible road west of Jacmel, Emi Cataldi surveys a new Caribbean lineup.

Icah Wilmot of Jamaica is one of the Caribbean's top surfers. Here he gets his fins out at a Haitian rivermouth.

Icah Wilmot of Jamaica is one of the Caribbean's top surfers. Here he gets his fins out at a Haitian rivermouth.

The hillsides of Pétionville above Port au Prince have seen a building boom since the earthquake with new construction everywhere. Let's hope president-elect Michael Martelly can bring better governance to Haiti than any of his dismal predecessors.

The hillsides of Pétionville above Port au Prince have seen a building boom since the earthquake with new construction everywhere. Let's hope president-elect Michael Martelly can bring better governance to Haiti than any of his dismal predecessors.

Emi Cataldi at Blue Point, a consistent right point in the Kabik area.

Emi Cataldi at Blue Point, a consistent right point in the Kabik area.

The limestone cliffs and left point setup may look like Indonesia, but it's Haiti in the Caribbean Sea. Emi Cataldi checks a new lineup near Aquin.

The limestone cliffs and left point setup may look like Indonesia, but it's Haiti in the Caribbean Sea. Emi Cataldi checks a new lineup near Aquin.

Icah Wilmot hits the lip as a crowd of villagers gather on the beach, most of whom have never seen surfing before.

Icah Wilmot hits the lip as a crowd of villagers gather on the beach, most of whom have never seen surfing before.

Jamaica's Icah Wilmot, warming up for the ISA World Contest in Panamá at a punchy Haitian rivermouth.

Jamaica's Icah Wilmot, warming up for the ISA World Contest in Panamá at a punchy Haitian rivermouth.

With only ten or so active surfers in the entire country, Haiti has many unridden lineups like this one near Jacmel. The only problem is the terrible roads, which make travel difficult even with a 4X4.

With only ten or so active surfers in the entire country, Haiti has many unridden lineups like this one near Jacmel. The only problem is the terrible roads, which make travel difficult even with a 4X4.

Emiliano Cataldi lines up a barrel section at the consistent rivermouth break of Chevalier, west of Port Salut.

Emiliano Cataldi lines up a barrel section at the consistent rivermouth break of Chevalier, west of Port Salut.

The once magnificent city of Jacmel suffered considerable damage in the recent earthquake - Icah Wilmot does some damage at Pistons, the local spot at the mouth of the river.

The once magnificent city of Jacmel suffered considerable damage in the recent earthquake - Icah Wilmot does some damage at Pistons, the local spot at the mouth of the river.

Sam Bleakley gets high in the lip at one of Haiti's many quality rivermouth breaks.

Sam Bleakley gets high in the lip at one of Haiti's many quality rivermouth breaks.

Still ripping, surfing new waves in Haiti, Zed Layson from Barbados.

Still ripping, surfing new waves in Haiti, Zed Layson from Barbados.

Sam Bleakley pioneers a new right on Grande Caye de Aquin with a noseride for an appreciative audience.

Sam Bleakley pioneers a new right on Grande Caye de Aquin with a noseride for an appreciative audience.

With this left reefbreak spot only accessible by boat, passing passengers get a look at surfing for the first time as Sam Bleakley gets on the nose.

With this left reefbreak spot only accessible by boat, passing passengers get a look at surfing for the first time as Sam Bleakley gets on the nose.

Icah Wilmot at Haiti's most frequently surfed spot, Pistons. A sunken ship at the mouth of the Grande Riviere de Jacmel makes a consistent sandbar.

Icah Wilmot at Haiti's most frequently surfed spot, Pistons. A sunken ship at the mouth of the Grande Riviere de Jacmel makes a consistent sandbar.

Emiliano Cataldi with fresh Caribbean seafood for lunch after a morning surf.

Emiliano Cataldi with fresh Caribbean seafood for lunch after a morning surf.

Zed Layson give his Fish a workout at Blue Point.

Zed Layson give his Fish a workout at Blue Point.

Sam Bleakley at a new rivermouth near Jacmel, a good three-hour drive from town.

Sam Bleakley at a new rivermouth near Jacmel, a good three-hour drive from town.

Early morning calm in Aquin as Emiliano Cataldi loads boards for a boat trip to distant Caribbean reefs.

Early morning calm in Aquin as Emiliano Cataldi loads boards for a boat trip to distant Caribbean reefs.

Outer reefs like Caye Regale in Aquin are always bigger than the mainland spots, with crystal-clear water. Icah Wilmot levitates over the sea urchin fields below.

Outer reefs like Caye Regale in Aquin are always bigger than the mainland spots, with crystal-clear water. Icah Wilmot levitates over the sea urchin fields below.

Local kids play in the shorebreak with wooden boards as Sam Bleakley gets on the nose on a rare glassy morning in Kabik.

Local kids play in the shorebreak with wooden boards as Sam Bleakley gets on the nose on a rare glassy morning in Kabik.

Emiliano Cataldi, enjoying the empty lineup and juicy rights at Blue Point.

Emiliano Cataldi, enjoying the empty lineup and juicy rights at Blue Point.

Emiliano Cataldi at Blue Point, working up an appetite for lunch at one of the many casual seafood restaurants in Kabik.

Emiliano Cataldi at Blue Point, working up an appetite for lunch at one of the many casual seafood restaurants in Kabik.

Sam Bleakley, on the nose in classic Caribbean conditions at Blue Point.

Sam Bleakley, on the nose in classic Caribbean conditions at Blue Point.

Sunset near Port Salut, Sam Bleakley back out for one more wave.

Sunset near Port Salut, Sam Bleakley back out for one more wave.

Driving Haiti's grueling roads can lead to new wave discoveries, but be prepared with water, food, and spare tires for many hours of bumpy travel.

Driving Haiti's grueling roads can lead to new wave discoveries, but be prepared with water, food, and spare tires for many hours of bumpy travel.

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Haiti often gets the short end of the stick when it comes to a positive international reputation. Violence, bad politics, disasters, corruption, and poverty is what gets portrayed by the reporters who fly in from Miami on a quick visit. A few hours filming the apocalyptic chaos in Cite Soleil in Port au Prince and they are on the return flight with a report for the US news.

Haiti is all those things, but much more as well. A vibrant culture of music and art, a sublime undeveloped coastline, and a resilient, self-reliant populace are rarely portrayed in any media. Haitian art and music are some of the world’s best, and the extensive coastline is one of the last undeveloped, unsurfed, and virtually non-touristed areas in the Caribbean.

On this, our third surfEXPLORE project in Haiti, we were able to explore several areas that have been on our group radar for quite awhile but inaccessible for many reasons. With only ten or so active surfers in the entire country, crowds are not a problem. The influx of international aid workers following the January 2010 earthquake has had a few surfers in the mix and we actually saw surfers we did not know in the water for the first time, in the Kabik area east of Jacmel.

As always, nothing in Haiti can be done without good friends on the ground and we would like to give a big “Merci Beaucoup” and a “Mesi Anpil” to Jean-Cyril Pressoir, Yanouchka Guerin, Vadim Behrmann, and Russell Behrmann, the Godfather of Haitian surfing, without all of whom a Haiti surfing project would be impossible.

“Piti, piti, wazo fe nich li” – “Little by little, the bird builds its nest”.


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